How-To · Timing Belt

Complete Timing Belt Service: 2003–2007 Honda Accord 2.4L

Marcus H. — Founder & CEO  •  December 19, 2024  •  15 min read

Step-by-step service guide for the K24A4 engine in the 7th-gen Accord. Includes torque specs, parts checklist, and the three mistakes most people make doing this job for the first time.

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How-ToTiming BeltAccordK24A4DIY

Difficulty: Intermediate. This job is achievable for a mechanically confident DIYer with basic tools. Estimated time: 3–5 hours first attempt. Skill requirements: comfortable with torque wrenches, familiar with engine access on a lifted vehicle. If you're not confident setting valve timing, take it to a shop — getting this wrong bends valves.

Parts List

Order everything before you start. You do not want the car apart waiting on parts:

PartOEM NumberNotes
Timing belt14400-RAA-A01Or Gates TCK328 complete kit
Auto tensioner14510-RAA-A01Hydraulic — always replace
Idler pulley14520-RAA-A01Replace with belt
Water pump19200-RAA-A01Include O-ring — usually supplied
Cam seal (exhaust)91212-RAA-A01Replace if seeping
Crank seal91212-PAA-A01Replace if seeping

Tools Required

  • Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
  • Torque wrench (capable of 180 ft-lb for crank bolt)
  • Honda crank pulley holding tool (or impact wrench — see Step 3)
  • Engine support bar or floor jack with block of wood
  • Long extension and wobble for timing cover bolts

Step 1: Preparation and Access

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Support the engine from below with a floor jack and block of wood under the oil pan — do NOT use the drain plug. Remove the right (passenger-side) motor mount. This drops the engine slightly and gives you full timing cover access.

Remove the accessory belts — loosen the alternator and power steering pump tensioners first. Remove the crankshaft pulley (damper) bolt — this is torqued to 181 ft-lb and requires either an impact wrench or a holding tool to prevent crank rotation.

Step 2: Remove the Timing Covers

The K24A4 has three timing covers: upper, middle, and lower. Remove them in sequence — upper first, then middle, then lower. Note the bolt locations: there are two hidden bolts behind the power steering reservoir bracket that beginners always miss. Take photos before removing covers so you know where everything goes back.

Step 3: Mark TDC and Remove the Old Belt

Rotate the engine clockwise (using the crank bolt) to bring cylinder #1 to TDC (Top Dead Center). The crank sprocket mark aligns with the pointer on the oil pump. Both cam sprockets should align with the marks on the upper timing cover rear plate. Photograph these positions before disturbing anything.

With the engine at TDC, remove the auto tensioner bolt, release tension, and slide the old belt off. Inspect it — note any cracking, glazing, or oil contamination and record what you found for future reference.

Common Mistake #1: Rotating the engine backward (counterclockwise) to find TDC. Always rotate clockwise only — counterclockwise can cause the belt to jump timing before you've removed it, which is confusing and potentially damaging.

Step 4: Replace the Water Pump

With the belt off, replace the water pump now. Remove the 5 bolts (12mm), pull the old pump, scrape the mating surface clean, install the new pump with a fresh O-ring (lightly oil the O-ring before seating), and torque the bolts to 8.7 ft-lb in a star pattern.

Drain and replace the coolant at this point — you've broken into the cooling system and old coolant has no place in a freshly serviced engine.

Step 5: Install the New Belt

Compress the new auto tensioner by slowly pushing the plunger into the body with a vise — do this slowly over 2–3 minutes to avoid damaging the hydraulic seals. Insert a 2mm pin (or straightened paperclip) through the hole to hold it compressed.

Install the new belt routing: crank sprocket → exhaust cam → idler → water pump → intake cam → tensioner. Maintain light tension throughout. With the belt seated, install the tensioner, remove the pin, and the tensioner will automatically apply correct preload.

Common Mistake #2: Installing the belt with the engine slightly off TDC. Always verify TDC marks before putting the new belt on. If the cam and crank marks don't all align simultaneously, the timing is off — remove the belt and find TDC again.

Step 6: Verify Timing and Reinstall Covers

Rotate the engine clockwise TWO full revolutions and confirm all timing marks re-align at TDC. This is the most important verification step — don't skip it. If the marks don't align after two full rotations, the belt jumped a tooth during installation.

Common Mistake #3: Skipping the two-rotation verification. It takes 90 seconds. A jumped tooth means disassembly and starting over at best — or a bent valve if you start the engine.

Torque Specifications

FastenerTorque
Crankshaft pulley bolt181 ft-lb (245 N·m)
Auto tensioner mounting bolt16 ft-lb (22 N·m)
Idler pulley bolt33 ft-lb (44 N·m)
Water pump bolts (12mm)8.7 ft-lb (12 N·m)
Cam sprocket bolts33 ft-lb (44 N·m) — hold cam with wrench
Motor mount bolts54 ft-lb (74 N·m)

After the Job

Top off coolant, reconnect the battery, and start the engine. Let it idle for 5 minutes and listen for any unusual noise. Check for coolant leaks at the water pump. Rev to 3,000 RPM a few times and let it return to idle — this allows the auto tensioner to fully prime with oil pressure. Reset the maintenance minder if equipped.

Record the mileage. The next timing belt service is 105,000 miles from today.

MH
Marcus H.
Founder & CEO
Former Honda technician with 12 years of dealership experience. Has performed this service more times than he can count.