Complete Timing Belt Service: 2003–2007 Honda Accord 2.4L
Step-by-step service guide for the K24A4 engine in the 7th-gen Accord. Includes torque specs, parts checklist, and the three mistakes most people make doing this job for the first time.
Difficulty: Intermediate. This job is achievable for a mechanically confident DIYer with basic tools. Estimated time: 3–5 hours first attempt. Skill requirements: comfortable with torque wrenches, familiar with engine access on a lifted vehicle. If you're not confident setting valve timing, take it to a shop — getting this wrong bends valves.
Parts List
Order everything before you start. You do not want the car apart waiting on parts:
| Part | OEM Number | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Timing belt | 14400-RAA-A01 | Or Gates TCK328 complete kit |
| Auto tensioner | 14510-RAA-A01 | Hydraulic — always replace |
| Idler pulley | 14520-RAA-A01 | Replace with belt |
| Water pump | 19200-RAA-A01 | Include O-ring — usually supplied |
| Cam seal (exhaust) | 91212-RAA-A01 | Replace if seeping |
| Crank seal | 91212-PAA-A01 | Replace if seeping |
Tools Required
- Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
- Torque wrench (capable of 180 ft-lb for crank bolt)
- Honda crank pulley holding tool (or impact wrench — see Step 3)
- Engine support bar or floor jack with block of wood
- Long extension and wobble for timing cover bolts
Step 1: Preparation and Access
Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Support the engine from below with a floor jack and block of wood under the oil pan — do NOT use the drain plug. Remove the right (passenger-side) motor mount. This drops the engine slightly and gives you full timing cover access.
Remove the accessory belts — loosen the alternator and power steering pump tensioners first. Remove the crankshaft pulley (damper) bolt — this is torqued to 181 ft-lb and requires either an impact wrench or a holding tool to prevent crank rotation.
Step 2: Remove the Timing Covers
The K24A4 has three timing covers: upper, middle, and lower. Remove them in sequence — upper first, then middle, then lower. Note the bolt locations: there are two hidden bolts behind the power steering reservoir bracket that beginners always miss. Take photos before removing covers so you know where everything goes back.
Step 3: Mark TDC and Remove the Old Belt
Rotate the engine clockwise (using the crank bolt) to bring cylinder #1 to TDC (Top Dead Center). The crank sprocket mark aligns with the pointer on the oil pump. Both cam sprockets should align with the marks on the upper timing cover rear plate. Photograph these positions before disturbing anything.
With the engine at TDC, remove the auto tensioner bolt, release tension, and slide the old belt off. Inspect it — note any cracking, glazing, or oil contamination and record what you found for future reference.
Common Mistake #1: Rotating the engine backward (counterclockwise) to find TDC. Always rotate clockwise only — counterclockwise can cause the belt to jump timing before you've removed it, which is confusing and potentially damaging.
Step 4: Replace the Water Pump
With the belt off, replace the water pump now. Remove the 5 bolts (12mm), pull the old pump, scrape the mating surface clean, install the new pump with a fresh O-ring (lightly oil the O-ring before seating), and torque the bolts to 8.7 ft-lb in a star pattern.
Drain and replace the coolant at this point — you've broken into the cooling system and old coolant has no place in a freshly serviced engine.
Step 5: Install the New Belt
Compress the new auto tensioner by slowly pushing the plunger into the body with a vise — do this slowly over 2–3 minutes to avoid damaging the hydraulic seals. Insert a 2mm pin (or straightened paperclip) through the hole to hold it compressed.
Install the new belt routing: crank sprocket → exhaust cam → idler → water pump → intake cam → tensioner. Maintain light tension throughout. With the belt seated, install the tensioner, remove the pin, and the tensioner will automatically apply correct preload.
Common Mistake #2: Installing the belt with the engine slightly off TDC. Always verify TDC marks before putting the new belt on. If the cam and crank marks don't all align simultaneously, the timing is off — remove the belt and find TDC again.
Step 6: Verify Timing and Reinstall Covers
Rotate the engine clockwise TWO full revolutions and confirm all timing marks re-align at TDC. This is the most important verification step — don't skip it. If the marks don't align after two full rotations, the belt jumped a tooth during installation.
Common Mistake #3: Skipping the two-rotation verification. It takes 90 seconds. A jumped tooth means disassembly and starting over at best — or a bent valve if you start the engine.
Torque Specifications
| Fastener | Torque |
|---|---|
| Crankshaft pulley bolt | 181 ft-lb (245 N·m) |
| Auto tensioner mounting bolt | 16 ft-lb (22 N·m) |
| Idler pulley bolt | 33 ft-lb (44 N·m) |
| Water pump bolts (12mm) | 8.7 ft-lb (12 N·m) |
| Cam sprocket bolts | 33 ft-lb (44 N·m) — hold cam with wrench |
| Motor mount bolts | 54 ft-lb (74 N·m) |
After the Job
Top off coolant, reconnect the battery, and start the engine. Let it idle for 5 minutes and listen for any unusual noise. Check for coolant leaks at the water pump. Rev to 3,000 RPM a few times and let it return to idle — this allows the auto tensioner to fully prime with oil pressure. Reset the maintenance minder if equipped.
Record the mileage. The next timing belt service is 105,000 miles from today.
Popular Parts
Popular catalog lookups include 31200-R40-A01, 31100-R70-A01, 14400-PLM-014, 31100-RAA-A03, plus other high-demand OEM replacement pages below.
31200-R40-A0131100-R70-A0114400-PLM-01431100-RAA-A0319200-RDV-J01104210-124006312-P03-901RM14400-P8A-A02